Vang Vieng

Fairy tale land. Really. Green karst mountains to climb, blue lagoon pools to swim in and so much more.

I was back on two wheels, but human powered for me today. Yesterday I drove through a 6k road washout and wrecked. Hard. I bruised or cracked a rib and did a number on my pointer finger. The bike is also a bit messed up. I lost my left foot post. I’m still game to keep going. The bike rental folks were amazing, and so chill.

My two wheels for today

I’m sure the error was rider……the trucks on the route were being hauled up the section of road by a huge front loader-tractor. Yikes. I was WAY out of my league. Full moon…….is my explanation for that!

Back to the beauty and joy of this place. I rode a zero speed bike 20k on gravel and loved every minute. It’s just so beautiful here. I hiked, swam and caved my way along the route. It was fab!!

It feels so good to be in warm, sunny weather in a beautiful area. I feel very lucky to be living this life. I screw up, I get up, and I just keep going. What the hell else am I going to do?

Loving Luang Prabang

My guest house is comfy, warm, and quiet. The village is quaint, and today I rode bikes and hung out with elephants!! What’s not to love!!

My guide Phao picked me up at 8:30 sharp. We drove to the start of our ride where the bikes were waiting. After a few miles, our boat awaited us to cross the river.

Me and Phao
The Nam Khan river

Phao’s story is amazing. He was born in a Hmong village and was lucky enough to go to school. It meant leaving his family for 16 years. He made it through University. His knowledge of the culture helped me piece together all I have seen in the past week. It was so informative and fascinating.

We rode through villages, farms and rubber tree groves. After some fun, flowy single track, we were back to the river and another boat ride.

Stopping for a quick dip

Soon, the elephants showed up. The organization I rode with is sponsoring an elephant rescue and preservation program. It’s currently small, but is allowing the elephants space to live, graze and be safe. The elephants deserve the best life possible.

I did get to bathe, brush, and swim with the gentle giants. After the bath, we went to a corral where the elephants devoured bamboo tree trunks, leaves and I got to feed them bananas, which they loved! Their trucks are so dextrous! It’s like they have thumbs.

Lunch

I’ve never been so intimate with an elephant. Touching it, feeding it, brushing it, talking to it. I was in awe.

Mountain biking + washing an elephant + learning from Phao made for a very special day for me in Laos.

My favorite things today

My ride today was lovely. I twisted and turned through rustic, old-world, villages. There was no commerce in any of them. Each had a sign that must explain the government programs protecting their culture.

I so wanted to stop and take a photo of a woman with a basket full of reeds on her back wearing a very traditional hat and skirt. I decided it would be intrusive, so I didn’t stop.

Trees were in full bloom all along my route today.

Here’s a little video where you can join me on my bike.

The view out of my Guesthouse window and door are stunning and quaint (less the smoke).

And my last favorite thing today: Sam sent me the photo below of a route he put up, (and which I was lucky to help with a belay). Sam decided to name the route “Murphy’s”, for Scott. I 💕 this so much.

Moving again

The cave was super cool. You get in a boat with a driver and a headlamp. The driver zooms you through the cave for 7km. Amazing. In places, it’s at least 5 stories high. In other places, it’s pitch dark and so shallow the boat scrapes bottom.

There are a few points where the boatman lets you off to explore on foot. A few photos follow.

Today, I headed north. My favorite moment of was meeting this adorable woman at a roadside food stand. She wanted me to buy one of everything! I asked if I could get a photo with her and she was so excited! She fixed her hair and straightened her skirt. She made my day!!

Best moment of the day

Tomorrow will be a very long, beautiful, ride, ending in the town with the The Plain of jars. My longest yet on the bike…250km. I admit, I love riding!!

Today left me giddy

I rode through luscious, green mountains and valleys today.

The day flooded me with warm memories of Scott’s and my Vietnam trip in 2011. Today was like re-living our favorite day of riding on that trip. The remote beauty, the fun, twisty roads, were a surprise and a treat.

I ended my day at Spring River Resort. A gem set on the river near the largest cave in the world.

Tomorrow I will explore the cave. Tonight, I’ll just stay giddy and grateful.

The Loop

It’s a thing here in Laos. You rent a motorbike and ride through the countryside on a loop that begins and ends in Thakhet.

Thakhek

I’m doing the “best of the loop” (Thanks to Mad Monkey Motorbikes).

I’m leaving the loop where the arrow says Phon Savanh

Today, I left Thaklet and drove fun, winding roads 120km through the beautiful countryside, and mountain climbs to Thalang. I’m staying at Posey Guest House (with other “loopers”). Posey is “fine, not fabulous”. Good enough for me.

A high pass

It was VERY windy today, and I was bundled in fleece and a shell to stay warm. Warmer days are ahead and I’m so glad the forecast is getting warmer.

Night one: Posey Guesthouse

I’ll keep posting my progress! It’s fun to share and keeps me stopping to take photos.

Leaving Green Climbers Home

It’s going to be so hard to leave this amazing,special place. Beyond having Sam, Melissa and Clare here, the place is stunningly beautiful and the activities are endless!

We have climbed, bicycled, caved, kayaked, swam, slacklined, and best of all, made new friends.

I’m so impressed with melissa and Sam and the warm, generous, kind, 💕 ng, fun, place they have created!

I’m leaving Sunday for more adventures. I’m sure going to miss them.

My choice of shoes

Shoes of Laos

I had a chuckle about my shoe choices for this trip. A far cry from those travelers on White Lotus.

Bottom to top:

Shoes for riding a motorcycle, approach shoes, water sport and trekking.

Running shoes: enough said,,,,,I always have these with me.

Flip flops: hostel, hotel, belay, going to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

Rock shoes: I’m leaving these behind to become rentals, but right now, they are my favorite shoes….ever!! The rock routes I have been doing are challenging and f!$@ awesome!! I’m 62 years old and can still follow a 5.10. Wow does that feel great.

And of course bare feet! The best of all in a place that’s warm, tropical and footloose!

The calm of travel

I’m sitting in my hut drinking coffee, listening to the rooster crowing today’s sunrise.

What I’m noticing most, in my Laos travel adventure -so far-, is that I have time…..There is no schedule, no return ticket to worry about, no pre-planned activities. I just get to be totally relaxed and take my time with anything I wish. What a gift!!!

Yesterday, Sam, Melissa and I, along with couple other guys from camp, went to rock climb. It has been at least three years since I tied into a rope. It felt great! Hooray for muscle memory!!

Scott and I taught Sam to climb when he was about 12 years old. He is now an incredible rock climber. Watching him sail up extremely difficult routes is a joy. It’s so gratifying knowing I helped expose him to something that he lives every day of his life!

Today will just unfold. A bike ride? More climbing? Read a book? I do love the “open to all options” vibe of my trip so far. A good start to all that lies ahead.

I’m in Laos!

SEA-SFO, SFO-Hong Kong, overnight HK. Hong Kong-Bangkok (BKK) shuttle bus from BKK airport to KOP airport, KOP-NAK (Thai/Laos border) then a shuttle 1.5 hours to Green Climbers Home and Sam and Melissa.

Every of the 48 hours of travel was worth it.

Bangkok is so huge and modern!!

The karsts/mountains here are so beautiful, it’s impossible to find the words. it’s smells great, the temperature is perfect (80’s), and I’m so super thrilled to be here!