From goats in the boats and on the beach, Bunaken is one surprise after another.

Most locals have no hot water, no washing machines or dryers (the resorts must) no air conditioning and no cars, just scooters.

These are just a few photos to provide a feel for the place.

The last time I went diving was 2016, in the Bay of Pigs in Cuba with Scott. Ten years is a long time, and I’ll admit I was a little nervous. No need! It all came flooding back instantly — and wow, what a day!

Widi showed up just before 8:00 am with the equipment and the boat.

We then went to pick up Indra, my guide for the day.

After splashing off the side of the boat and sinking slowly to about 30 feet, the underwater world was simply incredible. At one point we were surrounded by swarms of fish — it felt beyond dreamlike. Enormous sea turtles glided past us throughout all three dives, and by the end of the day we’d swum alongside more than 20 of them!

Some of the turtles were hiding in caves, others just glided by. The coral was healthy, vibrant and teeming with life. Going underwater is so much like visiting another dimension — it literally took my breath away.

We are going for two more dives tomorrow. Hooray!

All flights went smoothly yesterday and I arrived in Northern Sulawesi at about 7pm after leaving Toraja at 5am. Long day.

And so beautiful! The drive out of Toraja to the north was through lush rainforest on a windy mountain road.

Manado is an energetic city, much more upscale than Rantepao in context of this part of Indonesia. I keep feeling like it’s a little bit the land of crushed dreams.

The poverty here is heart breaking and life is a struggle. There are huge lines at the gas stations that are open, as there is a limit on subsidized fuel.

And still there’s humor, even in the warning sign in my hotel room.

Now I’m off to snorkel, scuba and to enjoy the sun and sea before heading home. Bunaken Island is about 4 miles around, so there’s not much here. The power is inconsistent and the internet is spotty. There ARE a lot of boats and it seems the only business is tourism. Bunaken is definitely the poorest place I’ve visited in Indonesia. I hope my visit helps a few people live a bit better.

I’m staying at a bare bones homestay with Aci. She is so sweet and inviting. The room is basic, there is no AC or hot water, and still I’m so glad I’m here rather than at a fancier place (there are two).

She arranged all of my diving trips through her friend Widi, and she is serving me three home cooked meals a day! Here is Aci and my first lunch with her. it was delicious!

I’m doing three dives tomorrow and two the following day with my guide Indra. I met him today and gathered the gear we need for tomorrow.

The water is crystal clear blue and there is coral everywhere. The boat will arrive at 8am tomorrow. I can’t wait!

I had another day on the back of a scooter visiting grave sites in Tana Toraja.

My guide today was Paulus, a rather dull guy, but he was fine.

We visited many cliff sites where bodies are buried in caves, or just perched among the cliffs.

Then we went to visit a coffee exporter. The connection was through my friend Scott McMartin- my coffee roaster, past Starbucks coffee department colleague.

What fun!! We cupped coffee and then visited the processing plant. I totally geeked out and had such a good time! I do love coffee.

Riding in the back of a scooter for two days was a lot, and totally worth it!!

I saw amazing scenery and fully immersed in the Toraja culture. I’m grateful for the experience.

This morning, early, before the clouds and rains started, I headed straight to the hills to visit the Dharma Girl.

I chose to drive a loop in order to take in as much as possible. It’s slow going on a 100cc scooter on rough, windy roads, even when there is no traffic.

When I arrived at the gate to Dharma Girl, it was locked, so I ventured down a trail through some coffee fields.

The guys showed up at 8:30 am to unlock the gate (opening was supposed to be 8:00) and I was alone inside. The grounds were beautiful. I don’t know the story of Dharma Girl, other than the population of Buddhists in the country is quite low – .7%, so a buddhist statue is unusual. There are only two in Bali.

On the way down, I almost crashed a couple of times looking around. The rice fields, the coffee farms and the mountains were breathtaking.

A perfect morning. Cool, calm and so scenic. Tomorrow, I head back to the craziness…..to catch my flight to Sulawesi on April 1.

And first, sunset on the beach

I drove an hour west, along with coast, mostly on back roads, through rice paddy fields, over rickety bridges and finally, popped out on a highway. Yikes. Luckily that was only for a few miles until I turned hard left onto a quiet street that led me to my new abode for the week.

This is a surf town. There are a few restaurants, a couple of massage places, and a beach. That’s really it. It’s quiet, beautiful and pefect for a few days.

The black sand is just glistening and I love the marks the crabs leave in the sand.

Not much news to report, which is just perfect.

My friend Roger moved to Bali about twelve years ago. Here, he started a beautiful business called Bali Beach Glamping. It’s so fun to stay here. This place is beautiful. Their main business is weddings, so I will only be here two nights before they kick me out for a private event.

We got together for dinner last night after I was able to unwind next to the pool, and swim in the ocean. It’s a surf spot, so lots of waves, which I listen to all night long. Hooray!

My scooter is here, so I have wheels. Today started at Tanah Lot, a temple on the ocean. It was a point of beauty among a ridiculous tourist trap. I stayed about 15 minutes and then scooted on to Canngu.

Canngu was gross. Enough said.

During the day, I had a surprise visitor under my fridge. A whole team came to my rescue. It was an innocent, non-venomous snake. I’m not sure it survived, but it was alive when it left my room.

In the evening, I went to Roger’s villa. So beautiful! We strolled up the road to play Pétanque with his neighbors. Our team won! It was a blast!

Next, I’m off to Bailan Beach. It’s a quiet yoga and surf spot. Perfect!!

The morning began with a delightful run through the countryside. I found trails and paths to follow, which wound me around the area of Tegallalang, known for it’s beautiful rice terraces.

After my run and breakfast, Alex (from Grab) picked me up for a larger tour of the area. We went to a coffee farm, and then onward to the mountain Bratan. We visited the lake, a water temple and took some photos. It was so fun! I wish I had more time to explore and climb the volcano!

Next stop: the ocean and my friend Roger.

After leaving the group, I headed outside of Ubud to a tiny village nestled among the rice paddies. Of course it’s beautiful here, it’s Bali.

My room has it’s own swimming pool, with lounge chairs on their own patio.

I had read about a full day bike ride in the rural area in Lonely Planet before I left home. I thought it would be a really nice way to see a piece of real life in Bali.

I was warmly greeted by my guide (Bagi) and his son. We launched immediately upon my arrival.

We pedaled trails and tracks through jungle and neighborhoods. It was deligtful

We finished at a tiny restaurant, owned by Bagi. The food was delicious!