The rave reviews about The Mae Hong Son motorcycle loop in Thailand being one of the best in the world is not overstated.

I have visited the tip top of Thailand, swam under waterfalls and in Rivers. Climbed stairs to beautiful temples to watch the sunset, trail run through several parks, rode winding, fun, fast roads, and I’m not done yet!!

It is tropical, lush, clean, the roads are beautiful and uncrowded, and it’s just so easy!

My route has been a little “off the usual path” (not surprised, are you?) after meeting other motorbikes heading the opposite way on “the loop”. The beta has been so helpful and allowed me to see even more beautiful places.

I ventured out of Mae Hong Son town, to visit a Namtok Mae Surin National Park. Wow!! There were cabins right on the Pai River, so cute and cozy, and not one person there. I had the place to myself. I went for a couple of swims, (and so did my phone…) and sat on a rock reading my book.

This morning, I ran trails on the edge of this same park and found beautiful swings all along my way!

After running, I drove a few hours to reach Pai. A cute, heavily touristed spot where I’m going to explore the area tomorrow and then start my massage class on Monday.

My time here is ticking away. My brain is staring to turn toward home. I feel fortunate to have so much to look forward to upon arriving back in the US of A.

I’m back on a motorbike and back in the mountains. Ahhhhh!!

Traveling in cities takes a toll. I did Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and then Chiang Mai in succession. Enough city-ing for me on this roll through SE Asia.

Chiang Mai is, well, Chiang Meh. The temples are cool, the Saturday and Sunday night markets were enormous, but aside from that…..there are hotels, massage studios, restaurants, 7-11’s, pot shops and tattoo studios. Kind of a yawn.

Until yesterday. I signed up for a full day cooking class at Thai farm cooking school held at an organic farm. Yes!!!! Jackpot!! It was SO fun! And delicious!! We stopped at a market to check out local ingredients and then drove an hour-ish out to the farm.

Ratha was fabulous! Fun, knowledgeable, and energetic. She kept us incredibly busy from 8am to 4 pm without a break!! We chopped, stir fried, boiled and ate.

Invite me over, I’ll make you Thai dinner!!

The day was a joy. There were nine of us in all. Lorenzo from Italy, I think, will visit Green Climbers Home next week. Several of us were Americans along with a family of 5 from Israel. The other solo female traveler, (Kate) just became an airline pilot and had spent several weeks riding a motorcycle through Vietnam. My sista!

After class, I picked up my spiffy motorbike for an early morning launch. I had a tattoo appt far out of town. The tattoo is great, and even better is the route I am now following to the highest peak in Thailand.

Tomorrow I get to spend the entire day in this luscious, tropical, national park: Doi Inthanan. Thailand’s highest peak is central, (2565m/8425ft) and has waterfalls, native villages, hiking trails and I will soon find out what else!

Random people I met, and, sometimes, did not get to meet. Makes me smile to see these special moments along my journey.

The surprise of Phnom Penh is the big, modern, busy city. Wow, I have been in slow motion, so this city is a bit overwhelming for me.

I’m staying on the 23rd floor of a high rise apartment building, a world away from my last guesthouse on Don Det, Laos.

for the Cambodian people.

Yesterday was informative, sad and hard. And so important. I toured the Choeung Ek killing fields and Security Prison 21. It’s the horrifying story of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge and how this one crazy man, in 3 years killed over 2 million of his own people. This was all happening during the time I was in high school.

The prison was where they interrogated men, women, and children. The killing fields are where they took them to finish them off and dump their bodies. I just couldn’t photograph all of the skulls (which they had on display, including explanations of how they were killed). It was devastating for the Cambodian people, both those who died and for those who survived.

There were survivors of the prison promoting their books at both locations. Amazing what the human spirit can endure. And how cruel humans can be.

Other than walking through the city, I spent the rest of my time at the pool on the roof of my apartment building, which is so nice. Especially with the temperature around 38/99 degrees.

I’m ready to leave the city for my next stop: Chiang Mai Thailand. I’m taking a cooking class, riding a motorcycle, and certifying in Thai Massage.

My final weeks are going to fly by.

They all do!!

My trip from Laos to Cambodia was smooth. The difference between the two countries’vibe was palpable.

Cambodia is so much easier! Most people speak English, they use the US dollar as their currency, and people are so friendly, helpful and kind.

People in Laos were not unkind, I think just more reserved. People in Cambodia so far have been warmer, and have humor. They’re fun and funny!

Siem Reap is a beautiful, modern and clean city. While here, I have joined a couple of group tours, and dropped in on an Exercise class at “Ankor Fitness” that kicked my butt.

The highlight of Siem Reap was sunrise at Ankor Wat. We left the hotel at 4:30am to experience the daily show. I signed up for a group mountain bike tour, which, ended up, being just me and my guide.

My trip to Cambodia was an after thought. I feel so lucky to have stumbled onto this amazing place in the world. I’m not seeing much of the country on this trip, and I know, for certain, I will be back!

I am traveling to Cambodia tomorrow. My last day in Laos was a LONG run around Don khong Island, and then laying in the sun ALL day reading a book on a lovely beach.

I will miss Laos! It has been an amazing experience I will have with me forever!

Highlights: Green Climbers Home!!!! Bolaven plateau! Kayaking 4000 islands!

Tomorrow’ Cambodia! Let’s see what it has to offer!!!!!

I arrived to Don Det and the 4000 Islands yesterday via van (packed to the ceiling) and ferry. Thankfully, the van ride was only 2.5 hours.

A short walk from the van brought me to the ferry dock.

The Island of Don Det is populated with guest houses and rice Paddy farms. That’s really it. It is a tropical paradise! You can choose to stay on the sunrise side, or the sunset side. Both are beautiful.

Today, I went for an 8 hour kayak tour. I was blown away!! We were provided breakfast, lunch, boat guide, boat, paddle, life vest, and several overland transfers, all for $22 USD. The best $22 I have spent in a long time!

What a day!! Paddling, swimming, paddling, waterfalls, meeting cool people from around the world….and basking in the sun.

Tomorrow: more of all of that!!! I absolutely love the 4000 Islands!!

I’m staying at Kam’s Mystic Mountain coffee farm. Kam is smart, creative and a true scientist. He grows delicious coffee, avocados, cacao, weed, and more. He is a master coffee roaster and a super nice guy.

He grows high quality Arabica coffee all under shade. He sells mainly to visitors to his farm.

The view from the top of this hill is breathtaking.

I’m staying for two nights so I can climb the two peaks nearby.

He has the sunrise view and the sunset view. So far, I have been here for the sunset.

I also was fortunate to hang out with a couple of crazies who live in Laos and stopped by for the day. They drank, smoked and puffed. They were a hoot and provided great entertainment.

Tomorrow: to the mountains! I’m thrilled to spend two full days in this coffee haven!

Today I stopped by a coffee farm where I met Mr Liang. He owns about three acres where he cultivates three varieties of coffee: Robusta, Arabic, and Liberica; as well as cacao and he’s hoping for some cannabis in the future.

I’m back on a motorcycle touring the Bolaven Plateau. On this five day journey I plan to visit and drink LOTS of coffee!!

You probably know how much I love coffee, and maybe not, that I worked in coffee for 11 years- including at the trading desk and in the tasting room. I was his best student on the tour…..

We strolled his land while he explained coffee: growing, harvesting, washing, drying, milling and finally roasting. He taught himself. And did a great job! He knows his stuff.

We were introduced to each variety of tree, and he explained the Laos cassava market to us.

We also had the chance to eat red ants!! And honestly, they were not bad….tasted lemony.

Who knows what’s in store next…..I’m hoping for more great coffee. Everything else is icing on the cake.

This morning I said good to Sam and Melissa one more time. This time for good, for this trip.

I spent two nights with them. Long enough to go to the river for an afternoon of R&R and to spend some time on a rope.

We ended our evening with a little ceremony. I loaned them some money to buy Green Climbers Home. After being there and seeing how amazing the place, and them running it feels, I forgave the remainder of the debt. We burned the “note” together.

Was the best moment of my trip so far. 💕