All flights went smoothly yesterday and I arrived in Northern Sulawesi at about 7pm after leaving Toraja at 5am. Long day.

And so beautiful! The drive out of Toraja to the north was through lush rainforest on a windy mountain road.

Manado is an energetic city, much more upscale than Rantepao in context of this part of Indonesia. I keep feeling like it’s a little bit the land of crushed dreams.

The poverty here is heart breaking and life is a struggle. There are huge lines at the gas stations that are open, as there is a limit on subsidized fuel.

And still there’s humor, even in the warning sign in my hotel room.

Now I’m off to snorkel, scuba and to enjoy the sun and sea before heading home. Bunaken Island is about 4 miles around, so there’s not much here. The power is inconsistent and the internet is spotty. There ARE a lot of boats and it seems the only business is tourism. Bunaken is definitely the poorest place I’ve visited in Indonesia. I hope my visit helps a few people live a bit better.

I’m staying at a bare bones homestay with Aci. She is so sweet and inviting. The room is basic, there is no AC or hot water, and still I’m so glad I’m here rather than at a fancier place (there are two).

She arranged all of my diving trips through her friend Widi, and she is serving me three home cooked meals a day! Here is Aci and my first lunch with her. it was delicious!

I’m doing three dives tomorrow and two the following day with my guide Indra. I met him today and gathered the gear we need for tomorrow.

The water is crystal clear blue and there is coral everywhere. The boat will arrive at 8am tomorrow. I can’t wait!